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Restoring Miscellaneous Tools and Shop Appliances


 
  Screwdriver Revival by James D. Thompson 1 of 2  

Disassembling old Screwdriver

Hold the handle in your vise and heat the ferrule to red hot.

There will be a lot of smoke and flames.

As soon as the wood inside the ferrule has cooked enough, you can pull the blade out with your fingers.

You don't have to heat the shaft, and if you like you can wrap it with a wet cloth during the ferrule heating.

Cut your handle stock square, plane it smooth, and carefully locate the centers. Turn a really nice fit for the ferrule and put the ferrule on. Then cut a taper behind the ferrule.

Now cut a radius behind the taper, and let the taper flow onto the square. The small diameter of the radius should be about the same as the large part of the ferrule.

Decide how long the finished handle will be and use a parting tool to take the end down to about 1/2". Leave the end on the piece. You will need the existing center when you bore the hole for the screwdriver shaft.

The portion of the blade which is inserted into the wood handle is different on the tools made by Bridgeport than on those made by Stanley.

The upper tool is a Bridgeport. The lower one is Stanley. Which is better? Six of one, half dozen of the other. Both are very well made tools. I note that the longer shank tends to split the handle, even with the correct size hole bored. The shorter one seems to go in with no problem.

I used the Scary Sharp technique to remove any rust spots from the ends of the blades.

I leave the tail piece on the handle until it is bored. That way i know my hole will be nice and straight.

Two of these handles do not yet have the non-slip grooves filed into them. You can leave them unfiled if you like.

This was a fun project, and I really like my screwdrivers.


 
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