Buying & Restoring Hand Tools with Ron Herman

Buying & Restoring Hand Tools with Ron Herman


Learn how to purchase old hand tools at a good price for restoration purposes. Rom Herman will demonstrate how to restore several types of hand...[Read More]
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Joinery Handplanes with Bill Anderson

Joinery Handplanes
with Bill Anderson


Learn how to identify, use, and repair wooden and metal joinery planes in this five hour instructional video that's...[Read More]
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American Woodworker's Hand Tool Fundamentals

American Woodworker's Hand Tool Fundamentals

$16.79 (Retail $27.99)

Take your hand-tool skill-set to a new level with this woodworking book & discover tools, techniques, and other advice...[Read More]
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Restoring Planes: Metal and Wooden

  Plow Plane Arm Repair by Jim Harvey 2 of 6  

This is the bottom of the fixture. Two screws hold the drilled 2◊4, they are placed so they will not interfere with the clamping slot on the top side. Itís easy to align the fixture on the drill press table, insert the threaded arm from underneath through the hole in the table about half way into the fixture. Lower a 3/4 forstner bit into the top of the hole, lock the table, and set the clamps.

I sawed the stripped arm off about an eighth inch from the foot. That left an inch or so of threadless wood on the shaft to practice on. In fact, I used a piece of 3/4 dowel up in the fixture to make the first practice tenons.

The first operation is to drill down on the sawn face with the 3/4 Forstner bit. That leaves a center dimple and faces the end off square.

The mortise will be drilled with a Forstner bit so I made a half inch hole in a piece of hardwood scrap to test the size of the tenon. I believe this is called a Mullet.

I considered a few alternatives to make a tenon. Maybe a hole saw (too sloppy). I looked at a half inch plug cutter (would have to regrind the tip to get a shoulder). I decided to use a cheap circle cutter, which can be tuned and has an angled bit that would make a nice tapered seat.

The inside of the bit is ground flat so it was easy to sharpen with diamond paddles, and the pilot drill is smaller than the #7 size needed to tap the hole. I also ground a relief angle on the inside of the cutter.

It was not designed to make a clean cut on the inside, making an angle of 15-20 degrees away from the cutting edge helps a lot. You only need to grind the cutter up about a half inch from the bevel, leave it flat where the set screw clamps.

It was very difficult to set the diameter accurately. I hit on using feeler gauges to measure the gap between cutter and pilot drill. I would hold the cutter against the feelers and tighten the set screw, which allowed me to add or subtract a few thousandths from the tenon diameter in a controlled manner.

Learn how. Discover why. Build better.
2 of 6  

Combination Planes

Sandusky Planes


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