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Restoring Saws, Saw Tools, and Other Equipment


 
  Bill’s Saw Cabinet by Bill Taggart    1 of 2  

Cabinet

I built this simple saw cabinet to better organize some of my old hand saws.  I actually converted an open saw till that I had built a couple of years earlier by enclosing the, top, bottom and back and putting a door on it.

As my shop is a very full one-car garage with wood and “stuff” piled all over, I wanted them to be protected. Since the garage faces the street, I also wanted to keep them out of sight.

As built it holds 12 saws, but the dimensions could easily be changed to accommodate a larger arsenal – or you could just build several and hang them in a row.

I built the carcass of ¾” birch plywood, but of course you could just as easily use pine or whatever other wood you like. I used the birch plywood because I had some lying around from some other old project and I wasn’t trying to make a Krenov cabinet or anything.

Since I was going for expediency and utility rather than beauty, I used rabbets for the carcass joinery.  I glued and screwed the rabbets, which makes a very strong case that is easy to square up.  I rabbeted the back into the rear edge of the sides, for strength as well as to hide the back.

The saws handles all rest on a 1” diameter dowel, as shown in the drawing.

To locate where the dowel needs to go inside the cabinet, I clamped the dowel horizontally in my bench vise and then balanced my biggest hand saw on it vertically. I wanted the saws to just lean into the cabinet slightly – just enough to keep them from falling out – so that they could easily be grabbed and tipped out.  Once I figured where the right saw angle was, I held the saw there and measured distances relative to the dowel to determine where the slotted blade holder and the back, bottom and top needed to be.

The dimensions shown are what I came up with; you should check the dimensions of your own saws to figure out the exact dimensions that will work for yours. One thing to be aware of is to make the dowel high enough up off of the floor of the cabinet so that the bottom horn of the saw handle does not hit the cabinet floor.  If it does, the saw will not sit properly on the dowel. Do not ask me how I know this.


Slots are 1-1/2” apart and 1-7/8” deep. End slots are 3/4” from ends.

The goal is to have the saw resting on the curve behind the top horn of the handle only, as the drawing illustrates.  In my cabinet, this required about an inch of space underneath the dowel.

I made a raised panel door to cover the whole thing with. The drawing does not show the door.

I think if I were going to build it again, I would probably make it bigger to hold more saws, with two doors, and I would include drawers on the bottom for files and saw sets and such.


 
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